Fashion designer Arto Wong received the New Talent Award and was named Overall Winner at the Hong Kong Young Fashion Designers’ Contest (YDC) 2017 for her "Zero to Unlimited" collection which invoked the notion of molecular transformation (left). The New Talent Award gave her the opportunity to retail her debut collection in Hong Kong’s multi-brand fashion mecca Joyce last year, visit Japan for three months, and simultaneously launch her own-label ARTO.

ISBN sat front row as Wong debuted her follow-up F/W19 collection at Hong Kong Fashion Week in January. Unlike a conventional runway parade, this presentation featured Wong's work in the form of a story told against a backdrop of a theatre-like stage for audience and buyers alike. And, in keeping with the burgeoning art market in Hong Kong, the models were shown viewing artworks as though in a gallery, which were in fact Wong's own moodboards (think Francis Bacon, Katsushika Hokusai, David Hockney meets Jackson Pollack) for the collection.

What inspired this F/W19 collection - how much is it a natural evolution from the last?

The overall style is the extension of the previous season. Ruffles, colour, and graphic components still make-up the important design elements.

What's been the best and worst of winning the YDC?

First, I'm one of numerous talent designers in the same year who won different fashion contents. The award gave me the chance to broaden my horizons and network. What has surprised me is the number of people and parties who would like to support Hong Kong designers and start-up brands - that exceeded my expectation. I think more and more passionate Hong Kongers would like to help build a reputation for Hong Kong Fashion. It is a huge motivation for me and other designers to run a brand and chase their fashion dreams.

How does the attitude here compare with Tokyo?

I had a study trip for three months which included experiencing Tokyo Fashion Week. One big difference between Hong Kong and Japan's fashion week's is public awareness. What I experienced in Japan is that many reporters from titles like Women's Wear Daily, I-D magazine, digital media, and TV shows reported all the shows and interviewed all the designers. Thus, the atmosphere in terms of promoting their own talents, and their own country label, is really strong.

The fashion world is changing so fast - even since you won. How confusing is it to keep up?

In the past, people who talked about fashion were not only focusing on the "look" or "style" of clothes, they were also paying attention to notions of quality and craftsmanship. With the rise of fast fashion and so-called KOL [Key Opinion Leader] culture, what makes the public spend money is "style" and "trend". One way to describe it would be to say, "Bad money drives out good".

What's the best compliment anyone paid you about the collection you won the prize with?

People who say, "I can recognise your collection even if it was launched one year ago". The image has taken root in their minds.

What did you learn about design/creativity/commerce after selling through Joyce?

Customers were surprised that knitwear could be designed in such a volumed style. I was glad to get such feedback as one of my brand missions is to broaden public horizons and perceptions towards knitwear. On the commercial side, wearability and comfort are the main factors a designer needs to consider. No matter how brilliant the designs are, customers will not pick them up if they can't deal with the clothes in a comfortable way.

And how different was this one?

F/W19 is a completed collection. The preparation process for this is totally different from preparing a capsule collection. In the coming season, I need to widen the product range so as to balance the commercial needs with the brand identification. You will see there are also some 'entry-level' or 'essential' knitwear items in this collection.

We see the influence of Francis Bacon, at least some of his colour palette, and also Hokusai's Great Wave of Kanazawa  some Jackson Pollack, perhaps even David Hockney in this FW19 collection.

You always say the loveliest things. I'm not sure that's a conscious decision but I'm delighted you can find those references in the work.

What advice would you give any aspiring fashion designer studying at HK PolyU or HK Institute of Textiles, or SCAD, right now?

Establish your own identity! There are no 'perfect' items fit for ever single customer. So, keep your passion on fire, work hard and play hard. 

Images: ISBN-Magazine; HKTDC